Why tag sizes are not enough
A jeans tag usually gives a waist and an inseam, such as 32 by 30. Those numbers are a label. They are rarely an exact measurement. Many makers cut their waists larger than the tag says, and the amount varies between makers and between styles from the same maker. Two pairs both tagged 32 can differ by an inch or more at the waist and by much more at the thigh. Measuring takes the guessing out.
Measure a pair that fits
Pick the pair you reach for most often. Button and zip it, lay it flat on a table and smooth out the wrinkles. Then measure each point below. For flat measurements across the jeans, double the number to get the full circumference.
- Waist Lay the jeans flat and buttoned. Measure straight across the top of the waistband, then double it.
- Front rise From the crotch seam up to the top of the waistband at the front, along the fly.
- Thigh Straight across one leg, about an inch below the crotch seam. Double it for the full measurement.
- Knee Across the leg at the knee. Makers measure this at different points, so compare like with like.
- Inseam Along the inside leg seam, from the crotch seam to the bottom of the hem.
- Leg opening Straight across the hem, then double it.
Write the numbers down and keep them on your phone. When you shop, compare them to the maker's size chart. A difference of half an inch at the waist or thigh is noticeable. A difference of an inch or more usually means a different size or a different fit.
Measuring your body
If you don't have a pair that fits, measure yourself. Wear thin clothing or underwear and keep the tape snug but not tight.
- Waist: around your body where you want the waistband to sit. That point depends on the rise you want.
- Hips: around the fullest part of your seat.
- Thigh: around the fullest part of one thigh.
- Inseam: from the crotch down the inside of your leg to where you want the hem to fall, ideally with a helper and with shoes on.
Body measurements and garment measurements are different. A pair of jeans needs some room over the body, called ease. Size charts usually say whether they list body or garment measurements. Read the note before comparing.
Allow for shrinkage and stretch
| Fabric | What to expect | How to size |
|---|---|---|
| Washed, rigid | Little change | Buy the size that fits now |
| Stretch | Loosens with wear, tightens again after washing | Snug at first, since it will give |
| Raw, sanforized | Small shrinkage, then stretches a little at the waist | Follow the maker's advice; often your usual size |
| Raw, unsanforized | Shrinks noticeably in the first soak | Size up as the maker suggests |
Getting the length right
How much the hem rests on your shoe is called the break. With no break, the hem just touches the top of the shoe. With a slight break, there is one soft fold at the front. A full break gives a deeper fold. Slim and tapered jeans usually look cleanest with little or no break. Bootcut and flared jeans are usually worn longer.
If you are between lengths, buy the longer pair. A hem can be shortened at home or by a tailor, but there is rarely enough fabric to add length. The hemming guide explains your options.
Buying online
- Find the garment measurements in the size chart, below or beside the tag sizes.
- Compare the waist, front rise, thigh and leg opening to your favorite pair.
- Check the fabric: stretch, rigid, raw or washed, and the weight in ounces.
- Read the return policy before you order, in case the fit is off.
- When the jeans arrive, try them on before washing or removing tags.